We all have them. A set of masks we take out and put on when we simply can't deal with our life for the moment. We use them to hide our true feelings, to cover our wounds, to escape the pain of something happening to us or around us. The last time you tried to hide how you felt in front of someone - embarrassment, anger, shame - what did your mask look like? Did wearing the mask work for the moment?
Your assignment: Post a description or list of at least five "masks" you have worn in your life. What were they worn for, what purpose did and do they serve? Describe how you will capture at least three of them in a final photographic TRIPTYCH. I will be looking at composition, creativity, understanding of the concept of personal masks, and technical ability with the final images.
Due date: Posting list of 5 masks worn - Wednesday, November 5, 2014
Completed Triptych - Tuesday, November 18, 2014
Monday, October 6, 2014
Sunday, September 28, 2014
- Once you have Photoshop opened, click on File > Scripts >Image Processor.
- In the Image Processor window, select the folder your images are in by clicking Select Folder.
- You can save in the current folder, or choose a different folder. If you save in the current folder, it will create a new folder inside it called JPEG and put the processed images there. It will not overwrite your original images.
- File Type – Save as a JPEG with a quality of 10. Your photos will be reduced in file size noticeably and will remain good quality.
- If you want to resize your images select Resize to Fit and enter the dimensions you want. Note: you need to keep the aspect ratio of your images. Make sure your original images are the same dimensions (they should be if they’re from the same camera) and divide the height and width separately by the same number to keep the ratio. For example, photos that are originally 2592 x 1944 will be resized to 1296 x 972, half of the original size, keeping the aspect ratio.
- Click Run and Photoshop will start processing your images. Wait for it to finish, then you can close it.
Now you can resize thousands of images with a few clicks. WHEW! That was so easy!
|Look! All my images resized at one time!|
Thursday, September 18, 2014
Friday, September 12, 2014
|Awww! Texas Sunset and True Love! What a "blend"!|
1. Pick your two images, making sure they are the same size both in resolution and dimension My images were not the same dimension so I had to place the image of Gerry and me on a new "board" that was the same dimension as the sunset photograph.
2. Select your Target (main) image.
3. Duplicate the background (Command J).
4. Select Image from the tool bar then Apply Image (this command may be hidden so go to Show All Menu Items and click on that...)
Before starting to work with it, you need to understand these important rules about using this tool:
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
How to read your ISO:
When shooting in low light conditions (like the sculpture studio!), there is not much light available for your camera sensor. A HIGH ISO number, such as ISO 3200, will increase the sensitivity of the sensor, multiplying the small amount of available light to give you a correctly exposed image. The "side effect" is what's called "increased noise" on the image, which looks like a fine grain, reducing the overall image quality...most pronounced in the darker/shadow regions.
|Present day "Girl with the Pearl Earring"...|
Outside on a sunny day, select ISO 200 and see how it goes.
If it gets cloudy, select an ISO somewhere in the range of 400-800.
If you are indoors, consider an ISO of 1600 or above.
Tuesday, August 19, 2014
Your first QCC!
Choose a partner and find the following:
Choose a partner and find the following:
1. Snake in the grass
2. A hundred roses
3. Puffy clouds
4. True Love
5. A blade of grass in an unusual place
6. The perfect NDB uniform
7. Breaking the rules
9. Magnolia tree in an interesting perspective
10. Bridge over troubled waters
Upload to a folder, label each image with what it is (snake, cloud, etc.), the images must be the correct size and format - 180 -280 dpi and not larger than 8 x 10".
Yes, I have prizes for the winners...
Yes, I have prizes for the winners...
Wednesday, May 21, 2014
|Photography B rocks in the new photo studio!|
What can I say? I began the year in a new home - Notre Dame High School - and will end the year in another new home - the Photography Studio under construction! I couldn't have done it without the support of all of my fantastic students and the new administration. Some of the images these incredible students created are below. I am very proud to be a part of the next phase of photography at Notre Dame.
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
When am I supposed to use JPEG fine, JPEG normal, JPEG basic and NEF(RAW) (...and what the heck do they mean, anyway?!)
Camera File Formats: By Anya Knoth
If you have been using your camera for a while, you may have noticed a menu option called image quality.
The options for this feature are JPEG fine, JPEG normal, JPEG basic and NEF(RAW)
Whoever invented those phrases obviously was not thinking about the fact that they make little sense, but that’s irrelevant. Hopefully, this guide will teach you what each option is and why you would want to ever use it.
Most of you probably know about JPEG, which is the standard file format for photos and is what we are all used to dealing with. JPEG files are pre-compressed by the camera, which basically means it takes the original photo and makes it slightly smaller and less detailed. Pretty much, no one will ever notice that. Because the JPEG is compressed, it is not the completely original file. This means that whenever you edit it, it loses a little bit of data and the more it is manipulated the worse it looks. That is basically the main problem.
The options for JPEG are basic, normal and fine. Basically, basic is the smallest, normal is the middle and fine is the most detailed. I always shoot in JPEG fine because it doesn’t really matter but it will get me good quality and that way I don’t have to worry about blowing images up super large.
Now RAW. RAW is essentially the original file, the complete data from the camera’s sensor. This file format is super big- because it is uncompressed, it is usually about 4x a large as a JPEG is. Also, RAW isn’t really a photo because it can’t be opened by most software. In order to use RAW, you have to get special software like photoshop, bridge or other free options that will allow you to edit it and convert it. Basically the only good thing about this file format is the fact that it is super big. Also, when you edit it, it has a much wider range in that the file is a lot less likely to look really bad after editing it for a while, so it can be manipulated at much greater lengths.
Essentially, RAW is a much bigger pain in the ass to use, and isn’t that useful most of the time. However, there are times when it is appropriate to use RAW. But at least shoot in JPEG fine.
Tuesday, February 25, 2014
7 things you should know how to do in photoshop (don’t worry, there will be more)
This tutorial will show you a few tips that I tend to use really often. If you have a mediocre photo, try some of these and maybe it will become less mediocre, or if you have a great photo this could improve it even more.
Also, keep in mind that these do not have to only be used on portraits, or all used together. They can all be used for other pictures and can all be used separately.
To start, open your image in photoshop.
FIRST DUPLICATE YOUR LAYER by pressing command+j
If you do not do this, you will regret it
Tip 1: command+shift+L
This is auto levels. It will adjust the color or levels of your photo, usually making it 10 times better. Sometimes, however, photoshop is not as smart as we wish and it will be bad.
On this photo, this command is great
Tip 2: Burn tool
The burn tool is kind of a brush that darkens your exposure in the spots you brush it over. On a picture like this, I usually use it on eyelashes or shadows to make the photo more dramatic. Be warned: It will look horrible if you try to significantly change anything, so be sure to set the exposure to no more than 10%
Also, set the range to shadows if you plan on darkening shadows (usually has the best effect)
If you want to darken highlights, change it to highlights
This is the difference between one eye burned and one eye not
Both are burned now, which helps direct attention more to the eyes.
Tip 3: Dodge tool
The dodge tool is the exact opposite of the burn tool, it will lighten the areas you brush over
I usually use this on catchlights in the eyes (the reflections of light) which are usually what makes a good portrait a good portrait.
Here, I set the mode to highlights because that is what I will be lightening.
The left eye is dodged, the other not yet
THIS is what will happen if you are overzealous with the tool, so be warned. Unless of course this is the look you are going for.
Tip 4: Sponge tool
This tool is another brush that will either draw out the colors in something, or desaturate them.
I will use it on Daphne’s eyes to make the blue/greenness come out even more
Make sure the mode is on saturate, unless you want their eyes to look dead or gross
Here is the final effect:
Tip 5: clone stamp tool
This tool can copy one part of the picture and stamp it on another. This tool here was used for when (god forbid) someone has a pimple or to correct under eye bags, but it can also be used to cover up a distracting part of the background, make Daphne have four eyes and much more.
To make a selection of what area will be stamped onto other areas, hold down alt while clicking somewhere on the photo. Here I used an opacity of about 20% so that the stamp would not be obvious. If needed, you can continue to stamp over an area until it is covered.
Here is the final product of using the clone stamp tool as a skin corrector.
Tip 6: Curves
The curves tool in photoshop changes the tonal values of the picture. Command+m will bring up the dialogue box:
Here I made a small S curve which will slightly increase contrast and make the picture look better (I think).
Below is what will happen if you make it to strong. If you like this look go for it, but usually it won’t win you any prestigious awards (although go ahead and prove me wrong)
Tip 7: Lasso/darkening
The lasso tool is a selection tool. This tip will focus the attention of the viewer on whatever happens to be the subject of the image. To do it, set the feathering of the lasso at at least 250 pixels, but 300 if you can. This will make the change gradual as opposed to a line from light to dark.
Draw a rough circle around your subject (leaving room to spare)
First hit command+shift+I to inverse your selection, then pull up the curves box again (command+m) and just pull down the shadows a little bit. This will darken the surrounding area, which will draw your eye to the subject.
Here is the final image, after all these steps. Below you can see the comparison of before and after. These tips are some of the ones I use often to improve images, and they do make a big difference.