Farewell and Welcome!

Photography B rocks in the new photo studio!

What can I say?  I began the year in a new home - Notre Dame High School - and will end the year in another new home - the Photography Studio under construction!  I couldn't have done it without the support of all of my fantastic students and the new administration.  Some of the images these incredible students created are below.  I am very proud to be a part of the next phase of photography at Notre Dame.

Anya Knoth

Shelby Hartness

Nicole Bryant

Rory McGinty

Rae Lin

When am I supposed to use JPEG fine, JPEG normal, JPEG basic and NEF(RAW) (...and what the heck do they mean, anyway?!)

Camera File Formats:  By Anya Knoth

If you have been using your camera for a while, you may have noticed a menu option called image quality. 

The options for this feature are JPEG fine, JPEG normal, JPEG basic and NEF(RAW)

Whoever invented those phrases obviously was not thinking about the fact that they make little sense, but that’s irrelevant. Hopefully, this guide will teach you what each option is and why you would want to ever use it.

Most of you probably know about JPEG, which is the standard file format for photos and is what we are all used to dealing with. JPEG files are pre-compressed by the camera, which basically means it takes the original photo and makes it slightly smaller and less detailed. Pretty much, no one will ever notice that. Because the JPEG is compressed, it is not the completely original file. This means that whenever you edit it, it loses a little bit of data and the more it is manipulated the worse it looks. That is basically the main problem.

The options for JPEG are basic, normal and fine. Basically, basic is the smallest, normal is the middle and fine is the most detailed. I always shoot in JPEG fine because it doesn’t really matter but it will get me good quality and that way I don’t have to worry about blowing images up super large.

Now RAW. RAW is essentially the original file, the complete data from the camera’s sensor. This file format is super big- because it is uncompressed, it is usually about 4x a large as a JPEG is. Also, RAW isn’t really a photo because it can’t be opened by most software. In order to use RAW, you have to get special software like photoshop, bridge or other free options that will allow you to edit it and convert it. Basically the only good thing about this file format is the fact that it is super big. Also, when you edit it, it has a much wider range in that the file is a lot less likely to look really bad after editing it for a while, so it can be manipulated at much greater lengths.

Essentially, RAW is a much bigger pain in the ass to use, and isn’t that useful most of the time. However, there are times when it is appropriate to use RAW. But at least shoot in JPEG fine. 

Knoth Knows - Tips and Tricks for your self portraits

7 things you should know how to do in photoshop (don’t worry, there will be more)

This tutorial will show you a few tips that I tend to use really often. If you have a mediocre photo, try some of these and maybe it will become less mediocre, or if you have a great photo this could improve it even more.

Also, keep in mind that these do not have to only be used on portraits, or all used together. They can all be used for other pictures and can all be used separately.

To start, open your image in photoshop. 

FIRST DUPLICATE YOUR LAYER by pressing command+j

If you do not do this, you will regret it

Tip 1: command+shift+L

This is auto levels. It will adjust the color or levels of your photo, usually making it 10 times better. Sometimes, however, photoshop is not as smart as we wish and it will be bad.

On this photo, this command is great

Tip 2: Burn tool

The burn tool is kind of a brush that darkens your exposure in the spots you brush it over. On a picture like this, I usually use it on eyelashes or shadows to make the photo more dramatic. Be warned: It will look horrible if you try to significantly change anything, so be sure to set the exposure to no more than 10%

Also, set the range to shadows if you plan on darkening shadows (usually has the best effect)

If you want to darken highlights, change it to highlights

This is the difference between one eye burned and one eye not

Both are burned now, which helps direct attention more to the eyes.

Tip 3: Dodge tool

The dodge tool is the exact opposite of the burn tool, it will lighten the areas you brush over

I usually use this on catchlights in the eyes (the reflections of light) which are usually what makes a good portrait a good portrait.

Here, I set the mode to highlights because that is what I will be lightening.

The left eye is dodged, the other not yet

THIS is what will happen if you are overzealous with the tool, so be warned. Unless of course this is the look you are going for.

Tip 4: Sponge tool

This tool is another brush that will either draw out the colors in something, or desaturate them.

I will use it on Daphne’s eyes to make the blue/greenness come out even more

Make sure the mode is on saturate, unless you want their eyes to look dead or gross

Here is the final effect:

Tip 5: clone stamp tool

This tool can copy one part of the picture and stamp it on another. This tool here was used for when (god forbid) someone has a pimple or to correct under eye bags, but it can also be used to cover up a distracting part of the background, make Daphne have four eyes and much more.

 To make a selection of what area will be stamped onto other areas, hold down alt while clicking somewhere on the photo. Here I used an opacity of about 20% so that the stamp would not be obvious. If needed, you can continue to stamp over an area until it is covered.

Here is the final product of using the clone stamp tool as a skin corrector.

Tip 6: Curves

The curves tool in photoshop changes the tonal values of the picture. Command+m will bring up the dialogue box:

Here I made a small S curve which will slightly increase contrast and make the picture look better (I think).

Below is what will happen if you make it to strong. If you like this look go for it, but usually it won’t win you any prestigious awards (although go ahead and prove me wrong)

Tip 7: Lasso/darkening

The lasso tool is a selection tool. This tip will focus the attention of the viewer on whatever happens to be the subject of the image. To do it, set the feathering of the lasso at at least 250 pixels, but 300 if you can. This will make the change gradual as opposed to a line from light to dark.

Draw a rough circle around your subject (leaving room to spare)

First hit command+shift+I to inverse your selection, then pull up the curves box again (command+m) and just pull down the shadows a little bit. This will darken the surrounding area, which will draw your eye to the subject.

Here is the final image, after all these steps. Below you can see the comparison of before and after. These tips are some of the ones I use often to improve images, and they do make a big difference.

Your Eye and the Area Around It (just another way to think about those pesky sketchbook prompts...)

Ready, Set, Contact Sheet!

Sprouting wings over our town! Sketchbook #2...just a thought...

I can fly, I can fly, I can fly!

Just what is a "Personal Altar", anyway?